Frequently Asked Questions
YES! Installing stainless steel tile is similar to installing regular tile, with a few notable exceptions. In many ways, stainless is easier than stone or ceramic tile. Many people choose to install our tile tightly together. This way, you do not need spacers and will not have to grout. Not grouting will shorten the job by at least two days. You have to let regular tile cure before grouting, then the grout has to cure before sealing. You skip those steps if you choose not to grout. If you are using the standard hardboard backer, the tile is installed with a construction adhesive (like Liquid Nails) instead of Thinset. You apply the adhesive using a standard caulk gun, directly to the back of the tile, and press it on the wall. Cutting metal is probably the most challenging part of the process. However, if you are comfortable cutting regular tile with a wet saw, you should have no problem mastering stainless tiles. There will be less waste as well. You will not crack our tiles, but you may have a bad cut or two. Typically, we do not recommend getting a lot of extra tiles (10% to 20% for a regular tile project). So if you are moderately skilled and have the right tools, this project is well within the capability of many homeowners. We are just a phone call away and enjoy working with our customers to achieve a great result.
That depends on where you install the tile. In most cases, grout is not required. It is only required if you are installing in an area that gets soaked frequently (like in a shower or outside). In those cases, you must grout to protect the underlayment and the adhesive. For other locations, even those that get somewhat wet, like behind the sink, you do not need to grout. In those cases, it depends on the look you are going for. Some people choose to grout when they are mixing stainless tiles with other media, such as stone, ceramic or glass, and they want a more homogenous look.
There is a wide range of grout that can be used with stainless steel tile. For most applications, standard un-sanded grout is used. Use a grout with latex added. In areas that are going to see a lot of dirt or grease (like in a commercial kitchen or public restroom), consider using a urethane or epoxy grout. They are more resistant to staining, easier to clean and do not require sealing. As for the color to use, that is a matter of taste. I like Deloreon Gray, which can be found in bags and in tubes to be installed with a grout gun.
When the tile is formed, it creates a void on the back of the tile. By applying a backer inside this void, the tile gains added rigidity and provides a suitable surface to bond to the substrate. The hardboard is the standard backer and works great in most situations. It is not affected by occasional splashings, like behind a sink. We use a 3/16" thick hardboard which stays mostly hidden by the the stainless steel tile's fully-formed factory edge. It has the lowest profile, as it makes a tile that is about ¼” thick. It installs easily using a construction adhesive similar to Liquid Nails.
If you are going to use the tile in an area that gets soaked frequently, like in a shower or outside, you will need to use the Fiberock backer. It works great in areas that see a lot of moisture. Because it is a little thicker and makes a tile that is about 3/8” thick, it is sometimes chosen when mixing stainless tiles with other types of tile, such as stone, ceramic or glass, to better match their thickness. However, because Fiberock is thicker, it does protrude from the back side of the tile and is NOT hidden by the stainless steel tile's factory edge. It is typically installed with Thinset, like regular tile.
To summarize, the hardboard backer is 3/16" thick, makes a 1/4" thick tile, and stays mostly hidden behind the tile's fully-formed factory edge. It's our most popular backer and is used in most situations. The Fiberock backer is 1/4" thick, makes a 3/8" thick tile, and because it's thicker, it does protrude from the backside of the tile and is NOT hidden by the stainless steel tile's fully-formed factory edge.
More information on our backers is available here: Tile Backing Options
We are the manufacturer. We make the tiles in Tyrone, Georgia. We are about 30 minutes southwest of Atlanta.
We only use U.S. produced stainless steel. Our steel is a ferritic stainless (430 series) that offers a wide range of properties that make it suitable for decorative and functional walls and backsplashes. It is one of the most common stainless steels used for decorative and functional purposes (like commercial sinks, outdoor gas grills, architectural trim, etc.) There is an ongoing debate on what type of stainless steel is best for a backsplash. The two most common types of stainless are 300 series and 400 series. While the 300 series offers slightly better corrosion resistance (primarily because of its nickel content), 400 series offers excellent corrosion resistance and we have never had a complaint of corrosion with our standard 430 stainless. It has a couple of other advantages that make 430 stainless our choice. It is a little less expensive because it uses molybdenum for corrosion resistance and ours is annealed to further improve corrosion resistance. 300 series is more expensive because nickel is not a raw material that the United States is a significant producer. Because the nickel is imported from competitor countries (like Russia and China), it adds to the cost of production and comes with a political cost. A further benefit of 430 series steel is that magnets will stick to it. That makes sticking your menus and notes on the backsplash with a magnet possible, just like on your refrigerator (also usually made with 430 series stainless).
The PVC film that is on the face of the tile serves an important function during production, shipping, and installation. It protects the brushed finish of the tile and reduces the chance of nicks and scratches. It is recommended that the film is left on until after the tile is installed. Once the tile is adhered to the wall and cured, the PVC can be peeled off. There will be a little adhesive residue on the tile and it will need to be cleaned. We recommend a cleaner and polish combination like Sheila Shine, which we carry on our website. However, there are many other products available to you locally. There is a discussion on our blog with great tips on cleaning and a good list of products.
Before leaving this topic, I want to mention that the PVC film can be a little tedious, but it really works well to protect the tile. Prior to adhering the tile, we recommend that you begin peeling the film off all sides and just leave the face covered. This will make peeling the PVC off easier. Some people report good results with peeling the PVC while installing and use extra care to avoid scratching the tile. If you are going to grout the tile, you definitely want the PVC clear of the joints so that you don’t ruin the grout when peeling or get the film trapped in the joint. Also, instead of floating the grout, you may consider using a grout bag with a thin bead tip to apply the grout directly to the joint and smooth with a wet finger. In any case, you want to avoid using a sanded grout, unless absolutely necessary.
See cleaning directions (link at bottom of all landing pages on the website), or cleaning discussion on our blog (link at bottom of all landing pages).
Cut tile may have sharp edges. Always use safety glasses when cutting any kind of tile. Read and understand all safety warnings associated with any power tool.
There are several ways to cut stainless steel tile. First, the primary concern while cutting stainless steel is to avoid generating a lot of heat that may discolor the steel. Until recently, we have recommended that tile is cut with a tile wet saw with a diamond blade. That is still a very acceptable method to cut tile; however, there is a method we found recently that is easier and less expensive. Stainless can be cut using a band saw or jig saw using a fine-toothed blade with 17 or more teeth to the inch. The trick is getting a straight cut and protecting the tile. There are two relatively new products that solve these issues. First, Rockwell has a tool called Blade Runner X2 that is essentially a small tabletop tool that has a jigsaw blade mounted from underneath the table. The upper end of the blade is supported between two rollers. This tool was purchased on Amazon and delivered to our shop for right around $100. Jigsaw blades are cheap while diamond blades used on wet saws are not. This tool could pay for itself the first time it is used. There is also a table made by a company in Germany (Neutechnik) that you can mount your jigsaw on, with the same advantages as the Rockwell tool. We are in the process of evaluating both tools and will provide more information and instructions in the near future. Meanwhile, the tile wet saw works well for straight cuts. When you have to notch a tile (like around an outlet), you can make the straight cuts with the wet saw and the inside cuts with an abrasive cutoff wheel in a Dremel rotary tool.
We have posted a video on YouTube that shows several methods for cutting stainless steel tile:
Yes, we do offer those services. Because of the variety of possibilities, please call and ask about your specific requirement. We enjoy helping with your projects.
Because the tile has a turned edge, when you cut it, you lose the factory edge. The best way to deal with this issue is to work your layout so that cut edges only go into a corner or against a cabinet or trim work. The cut edge will not show. If you can’t make the layout work with ending an area with full tiles, you can use J-Trim to cover the edge. We offer J-Trim in 6” and 12” lengths. Give us a call so that we can offer suggestions on your layout so as to avoid the need for using J-Trim.
Yes, we enjoy working with you to help you get the best result possible for your project. In the future, we will be offering videos to address some of the more common layout issues. In general, work to create a design and layout that fits your space best. A couple key considerations are: 1) how the pattern fits within openings and 2) how the tiles end, both in corners and the ends of the pattern. By fitting in an opening, we are talking typically space above the stove and below the vent or microwave, and the area above the sink. If possible, we want the pattern to be symmetrical in these spaces. By that, we mean that the pattern is centered within the spaces. After that, we want to see how the tile will end in the corners and on the sides. On small walls, it is good to make both sides end with the same size tile (symmetrical). Also, we don’t want to see a pattern end with just a sliver of a tile. The very small tile will be distracting. When the tile is to continue around a corner, experiment with how that transition is best made. There are two good methods. One is to make it a continuation of the pattern around the corner. Let’s say we are using 4”X8” tile and when we reach the corner, we have to cut a tile to 6 inches to fit. Take the 2-inch leftover and turn the corner with it. This makes for a nice flow. Another option is to make the opposite walls mirror each other. So in the above example, if you finish with a 6-inch tile, make the next wall start with a 6-inch tile. Both patterns will be symmetrical and produce a contiguous look. With any type of tile that you install, it is not likely that every consideration will be accommodated. In that case, you choose the most visible element to make right and the least visible element will require some compromise.
You can use our Tile Calculator located above the Add to Cart button on all products, or call or email for assistance with determining how many tiles you will need. While determining how many tiles to order, you generally order extra for mistakes. However, with stainless tile, you eliminate the most common problem with ceramic, stone and glass tile…..breakage. Stainless steel tiles do not break or crack like regular tiles, so you will not likely need as many extra tiles. Usually, just a few extra tiles are needed to allow for the occasional bad measurement or cut.
If you ordered too many or you simply changed your mind, we will refund the purchase price of the returned tile, not including shipping, as long as the tile still has the PVC cover in its original condition and we're able to put it back in stock for sale. Unfortunately we cannot refund any returns received 60 days after the Order Date. Custom orders cannot be returned or refunded. Please contact us prior to returning.
First, we take the security of your personal information very seriously. We never record your credit card number. We do not write it down or store it on our computer. We process all payments through PayPal. The link is either through our website, via an encrypted transmission, or through PayPal’s virtual terminal. Again, credit card information (except the last four numbers) is not recorded on our system and is encrypted for transmission. We accept all major credit cards: Master Card, Discover, Visa and American Express. You can also pay using your PayPal account directly on our website.
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Yes, we offer 3 free samples of our tile (except the 6" x 12", 12” x 12” and 12” x 24” tile). Because of a vulnerability offering them completely free, we charge you just for shipping. You currently pay $5.99 for delivery by USPS Priority Mail.
Order Sample Tiles here.
We strive to ship the same day as we receive the order. If the order is received too late, the order is prepared and shipped the next business day. For very large orders, it may take longer to produce and ship. Call if you have any special requirements.
Most orders ship via UPS. You can select the type of shipping, from ground to next day air. For large commercial orders, we can also ship using LTL freight. We have good relationships with excellent shippers and always work to get the best rates for our customers. The free samples are delivered by USPS Priority Mail.
It depends on where you are and the shipping you select. Here is a basic overview of ground shipping for